Tech Specs from A. Lange & Sohne:
GRAND LANGE 1 “Lumen” Ref. 117.035
Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L095.2, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand
Movement parts: 400
Screwed gold chatons: 7
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; power-reserve indicator; outsize date
Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; push piece for rapid correction of the outsize date
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40.9 millimetres; height: 9.8 millimetres
Movement: dimensions Diameter: 34.1 millimetres; height: 4.7 millimetres
Crystal and back Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Dial: Basic dial (outer ring, hour, minutes, small seconds) of solid silver (black), recessed parts of sapphire crystal with semitransparent coating; luminous outsize date and indications for hours and power-reserve
Hands: Rhodiumed gold; hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator luminous
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Buckle: Lange prong buckle in platinum
Limited edition: 100 watches
Confident in their watches, they don't seek much feedback. They sort of know they are cool, but are friendly enough when it comes to sharing their passion with everyone else. The last few years has seen a lot of growth and success for the boutique Swiss brand run with Italian blood. From both a mechanical and design perspective there is quite a lot to see and enjoy here. One of their finest new watches, and probably one of the best for 2013 overall is the new De Bethune DB16 Tourbillon Regulator.
Whether it is cooler in black or plain zirconium is a matter of taste. I happen to think the design works a bit better in black. It feels a bit less retro-inspired, and I think black cases work with open dials such as this. MB&F and Urwerk originally complained to one another than the ZR012 design looked either too MB&F or too Urwerk. I think most fans will agree that the design is legitimately somewhere in the middle. What makes me curious is how this collaborative process works. Sure it is easy to imagine two small, highly opinionated and independent brands working together on paper... but in reality I am not sure how it worked. It was after all... an experiment. I wonder if their relationship is all the better for it? I suppose it must be since these pieces finished the full 24 piece limited edition collection of the ZR012. Though my big question is... what is next for the "explosive" brand (that C3H5N3O9 denies is even a brand).
Finally, while I hesitate to recommend buying on eBay and some online stores, I think part of the fun is finding the best price around. Just make sure you do your research on the merchant as much as you do your research on the brand and model you plan to buy.
There is something to be said for being the first to start it all.
Ulysse Nardin has recently produced a beautiful corporate movie displaying the people and methods behind the production of watches at their facilities in Switzerland. We've broken down those movies into several parts which will be posted weekly for you to watch. Please enjoy part 4 of the series on how Ulysse Nardin makes watches.
It was only a matter of time before the Roger Dubuis Excalibur watch connected itself a bit more with Arthurian legend. For 2013, the high-end Swiss watch brand and movement manufacture will produce a limited edition version of the Excalibur watch called the "Table Ronde." Somehow I feel that given the super Britishness of the concept, they would have forgone the French name and simply called it "The Round Table." As completely silly as this watch is, I still get a kick out of the concept. Like I said, I have been waiting for a more medieval version of the Excalibur for a while and this is not at all what I could have expected.
German Sinn watches are known for serious professional-use timepieces and not much else. A design-oriented novelty watch, no matter how well-made, just isn't part of their DNA. That doesn't mean they haven't dabbled in fanciful things though. Who do they think they are? Fortis?... Back in 2010 I wrote about a very strange watch called Sinn 902 here. It was a sort of petite-men's watch with a unique cushion-shaped case and a three-hand movement. It was based on a series of timepieces that Sinn produced for Audi a few years earlier. Among those Audi models was a chronograph version of the unique cushion watch.
Casio G-Shock GW-A1100 Gravity Defier
Girard-Perregaux watches are however very conservative in their design. If you love traditional restrained looks you'll love them. If you are looking for edgy avant-garde design, then they offer a bit less. That isn't to say they don't offer some wild stuff, but their primary focus has been on fluid, non disruptive design. Lovers of classic design are looking for precisely that. This 1966 Chronograph is a perfect example. What you see before you is the 2012 version of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph in a 42mm wide case. This is 2mm up from the other 1966 Chronograph. Let me first discuss the differences between the two models.
Nick Capehorn who conducted with interview is a copywriter for the UK-based design agency Theme Group.
The screws are detailed with Loctite, as you'd expect. It's not a design I've seen anywhere else, but it works very well.
- Mechanical automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 756, crafted, assembled and decorated by
- 28,800 vibrations per hour
- 65-hour power reserve
- 335 parts
- 39 jewels
- 7.39 mm thick
- hours, minutes
- vertically-triggered chronograph: hour and minute counters, central seconds
- radial power reserve
- movement operating indicator at 6 o’clock
- black openworked
- applied numerals with white/blue SLN
- anthracite grey chronograph counters
- grille: representing the radiator grilles of Aston Martin Vanquish cars
- Aston Martin logo on the inner bezel ring
- Date at 6 o’clock
- Power-reserve indication on the inner bezel ring
- H/M : rhodiumed, and enhanced with white superluminova, lengthwise brushed
- Operating indicator at 6 o’clock
- 2 red lacquered hour and minute counter markers
- Red lacquered chronograph seconds hand
- ø 44 mm, grade 5 titanium
- thickness 15.64mm
- Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin logos engraved on the case-back
- convex sapphire crystal
- water-resistant to 50 metres
Wristband and buckle:
- interchangeable wristband
- black calfskin
- 20 mm folding clasp
Reference: 194 T4 70 (194T470) aka ref. Q194T470
The difference between the movements is a bit significant. The standard SeaStar 1000 Chronograph uses the budget-priced Swiss ETA C0.211 automatic chronograph movement, while the limited edition model uses the tried and true Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic movement with a gold-toned automatic rotor, both seen through the casebacks (I like the printed SeaStar logo and seahorse printed on the Valjoux version's caseback window). Neither of the movements are what I would call "fancy," but for sure, the 7750 is a better movement. ETA tried to make the distinction between the two movements a bit more pronounced in terms of function by having the C0.211 be a six hour chronograph versus the 12 hours of timing for the 7750. This is actually a very arbitrary distinction technically speaking, but I get why they did it. Also, the 7750 is a day/date movement while the C0.211 only shows the date. This is reflected on the dial of the watches accordingly.
One of the more surprising things that's been said is with the old rule of 50%, the fact is that a watch that is Swiss Made can also, by extension, mean that the same watch can be labelled "Asian Made". This alone can dilute the value of "Swiss Made", and thus the new 60% rule attempts to address this criticism by defining a larger percentage of the watch's value.
We first debuted the IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic here. In that previous article you'll get a better understanding of what separates the IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic from the standard IWC Portuguese Chronograph. In short, the two models are different sizes, with different cases and dials, as well as different movements. To be honest, both are good choices if you are a Portuguese lover - as each as its high-points - but the Chronograph Classic should be considered a higher-end item given the more sophisticated in-house made movement.
If I have any negative opinions about this watch is that I have yet to master, without referring to the manual, the various features of the dial. Also, this is not a watch you want to get wet. It's listed at 30 meters water resistant, however, the dealer and Breitling (via the manual) are pretty clear about this: do not submerge it... I guess, the slide rule, while super cool, does have a clear shortcoming.
At 47mm the size won't suit all. I do remember the days where I wore a Panerai 127 and IWC Big Pilot with no problem on my 6.5" wrists, both of which wear much bigger due to their thickness and large crown/crown guards. Now I generally stick to the sub 45mm category, but I have no issue with these and happily wear the brand in rotation with my higher priced pieces. Plus if that dash of red doesn't signify the holidays are coming, I don't know what does! Price is 897.79 Swiss Francs. sevenfriday.com
Arnold & Son HMS 1
This has been the second segment of a 2 parts interview with Maximilian Büsser of MB&F. I hope that this has provided a unique insight into the past, present, and future of one of modern watch making's most influential men, and most innovative, most creative brands. I am confident that modern horology would not be the same without his and his Friends' work and wish that we can keep on bringing you their latest and craziest creations for a long time!
Patek knows that the core design of this watch has been copied many times. Even by high-end competitors. So why buy the Calatrava? There are reasons above and beyond the Patek Philippe name on the dial. A good reason is the movement and the detailing. Oh, and there is the new caseback. Patek Philippe apparently spent a few years developing and perfecting an “invisible” hinged case back for the 5227.
The high-end watch line Grand Seiko was for decades only available in Japan. But, in 2010 they started to ship certain models overseas for the first time. Built to exacting standards by Seiko’s most skilled watchmakers, this line has a a rich history of excellence.